2nd June 2012 – Second day of a four day trip from Kargil to
Western Ladakh
The cold and
chilly night coming to an end in this inhospitable terrain of Rangdum, brought
a huge relief. We got ready to hit the trail after helping ourselves for our
morning chore with water from the tube-well in the compound. At 7 am, coming out
from our accommodation of Tourist Dak Bunglow, with baggage in hand and walking
to the car, I froze in my track! The ice blisters occupying the entire space of
bonnet, wind shield and wiper told its own grim story. The early part of night
caused the condensation of atmospheric moisture. The later part of night
hitting sub-zero, caused the moisture to freeze. Maqbool our driver starting
the engine told us that as per the car temperature indicator, the ambient was
minus one degree and inside the car plus one degree. That was some revelation!
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Ice blisters on bonnet, windshield & wipers |
As we
departed from Rangdum Dak Bunglow for our 131 km journey to Padum, we observed
the flowing water had solidified to ice in the narrow water trenches near the
road. No doubt these regions are coldest in Ladakh. Our journey going up the straight
hilly road to higher altitudes, it was a foregone conclusion that the cold conditions
were bound to prevail for the rest of our journey. We had a glimpse of Rangdum
monastery from a distance, which we fortunately visited the day before. The
more height we gained, the more snow covered hills made their appearance.
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Snow capped hills on way to Penzi La |
At 7.30 am
we sighted the signboard of Penzi La pass, with scattered snow on road side and
hills full of snow. Gradually we were more and more into snow white terrain on
both side of brown mud track. Sighting a frozen lake, we decided to take a break,
coming out of the car in cold and windy condition, rubbing our palms to get
circulation going to our shutter finger. The chilly morning was more than made
up by warmth in our hearts in getting to view some awe inspiring nature’s
bounty. Without any doubt, among all the mountain passes I have seen in Ladakh
including Khardung La, this one takes the cake.
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Signage for Penzi La |
The visual
starts from road side trench itself. The melting snow flowing into the trench, their
re-solidification into ice, re-melting and re-solidification cycle in windy
conditions, unfolded some awe inspiring nature’s creations!
The frozen
Statso / Langtso glacial lake close to the road with gray color borders to indicate
the contour of the lake, was simply breathtaking. In late summer, with the snow
fully melting, the lake water will look deep blue and add more color to the
landscape.
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Statso / Langtso Lake, Penzi La, Zanskar |
Looking
onwards the jeep track, a view of watch tower at a distance of 100m, with backdrop
of snow capped hill, photo of which would make an appropriate picture postcard
or screen saver for computer!
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View Point, Penzi La, Zanskar |
After a
very satisfying ‘once in a lifetime’ photo break at Penzi La, we continued
along the snow bound terrain for nearly half an hour and another new spectacle
came to our vision. The funny sounding name Drang Drung glacier written on a sign
board, made us take another break. The very conspicuous ‘S’ shaped glacier close
to the road, almost at the same elevation, took our breath away. There was a
time when this glacier stretched right up to the road.
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Drang Drung Glacier, Zanskar |
The journey
beyond, we were on a gradual descent and around 8.35 am we got a lovely top
view with a topography which had all the elements a perfect landscape - the
blue water mass, the serpentine road going down, the distant hills with some
snow cover and blue sky.
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Zanskar Valley Landscape |
Between
9.45 am and 10.25 am, we passed by nondescript villages named Akshow, Chibra
and Hamling and a police check post named Abran where the driver did the
needful. At around 11.50 am, the topography changed once again - we were
driving through a valley with soothing green grass land and small bushes all
around. The hills were barren and brown without any vegetation or snow. We
diverted from main road to travel 15 km to reach Karsha Village and Gompa around
noon. The village situated on slopes of a hill had some dilapidated Structures
as dwellings and Gompa structures on top.
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Karsha Gompa, Zanskar* |
We climbed
some steps to arrive at the Karsha Gompa. The gate of Gompa was closed as it happens
in some of the Gompas in Ladakh in early summer for whatever reasons. Our
reward for climbing those steps were more than compensated by the astounding
view which we got from top, that of Zanskar valley and Zanskar river meandering
within.
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Zanskar river in Zanskar valley |
Coming back to main road going towards Padum, around 1.20pm, we reached
Sani Gompa situated at the road level, which is perhaps the only of its kind,
where one does not have to climb steps in hilly regions of Western Ladakh.
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Sani Gompa, Zanskar |
Around 3
pm, we reached our destination of Padum. What Rangdum disappointed us as a
simple village of scattered cottages with minimal amenities, Padum is a
bustling destination, having an asphalted main road, with houses, hotels, shops
and restaurants on either side. We were on a look out for a decent hotel for
two nights stay. We tried a few but none had any piped water supply. The JKTDC
guest house looked good but expensive. At last we located Chamling Kailash
hotel & restaurant with decent rooms with piped water in attached
washrooms. Only hot water was to be supplied by the hotel staff. The hotel
tariff for a double room being at Rs.600/ - per room per night, we took two
rooms straight away, dumped our baggage and came to restaurant in the first
floor.
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Chamling Kailash hotel, Padum, Zanskar |
After a cup
of tea and momos, we decided to take
the advantage of good light in late afternoon for some more sightseeing. The
first one we visited around 4 pm was Pibiting Village & Gompa which is
actually visible from Padum. The car took us to part of the elevation to the
village on a hillock. Further up one large Chorten ( Stupa ) with golden top
was looking majestic with adjoining Gompa structure.
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Pibiting Gompa, Padum, Zanskar* |
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Buddha Statue, Pibiting Gompa, Padum, Zanskar |
With time
still in our hand before we called it a day, around 5 pm we reached Stongdey
Gompa. After some climbing the ‘jigsaw’ puzzle looking valley below consisting
of cultivating land and dwelling was some landscape! The interior of the Gompa
was equally fascinating with gorgeous looking Buddha statue, the scrolls, the
murals and the masks used during festivals.
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Valley View from Stongdey gompa |
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Buddha statue at Stongdey Gompa, Padum, Zanskar * |
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Thangkas at Stongdey Gompa, Padum, Zanskar* |
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Mask at Stongdey Gompa, Padum, Zanskar* |
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Returning
back to Padum, we were ruminating, ‘Today was most fascinating day’s experience
in Zanskar valley. Let us see what morrow will bring!’
* Images by
Sachin Vaidya
Note: Readers can have the pleasure of watching the Zanskar Valley jeep safari through Handycam recorded video clip as per the captioned link:
Zanskar Valley Jeep Safari - Rangdum to Padum