The saying goes, ‘man proposes and God dispose’. The summer of
2013 will rank as one of the worst experiences to the visitors to Uttarakhand
and to lesser extent the neighboring state of Himachal Pradesh. Having watched
the extreme vagaries of Himalayan weather, in the same period, from Rakcham in
Kinnaur district of Himachal, we were getting restless, unable to start our
journey through the blocked roads to Sangla. Sangla was only 14 km, yet so far
as there was no sign of road clearing of the huge boulders fallen from hills,
for resuming of regular vehicular traffic. Finally, on 20th June, we
were told by hotel manager to trek 14 km to Sangla to avail of the helicopter
service for Rampur for further journey. Our tour itinerary having gone haywire
did not bother us anymore; we wanted to reach Mumbai - our home town as early
as possible.
By 8 am in the morning, biscuit packet and water bottle in me
and a porter to carry our back pack, we three were on the weather ravaged road
for trek to Sangla. A 14 km down the slope walk through motorable road did not
appear too taxing till we approached our first obstacle – road covered by mud,
stone and boulders. To our dismay, we had to encounter 7 to 8 more obstacles - noteworthy
among them was two uprooted huge pine trees lying across totally blocking the
road. We surmounted one by going beneath it’s huge trunk and the other by
scaling over. Almost reaching Sangla, the last obstacle was the most
difficult one with scattered boulders occupying the entire road width, with a
lot of mud entrenched in between, with no easy way to squeeze through. The
porter’s advice came handy and commanding all my resources and cautiously on
all the fours, by the edge of the road, dragging myself across was really scary
and taxing. A minute’s rest thereafter enabled us to recover our wits to cover
the final stretch to Sangla bringing us cheers!
We were surprised to have made the whole of 14 km in 2 hr and 45
minutes. Following frames show the road blocks we encountered shot by my travel
mate S Rajagopal.
Reaching Sangla market, we were waiting for our driver, who
started late from Rakcham through an alternate short cut route. He was supposed
to meet us and find for us an accommodation at Sangla. Finding no trace of him
and our hunger pangs getting preference, we climbed the steps to first floor
restaurant in the name of Sonu Tibetan Café and settled down on the verandah
overlooking the street, so we could keep an eye on other tourists arriving from
Rakcham. Sangla market is one street entity, with all possible types of shops
lined up. Our ordered veg. Momo came within no time. As we were digging into
our food, in came Sonu the driver and he was tad surprised to see us reach here
so early.
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| Market Place, Sangla |
Sangla is a small town with most of it consisting of market
place and administrative buildings located some distance away. Most of the good
hotels are situated 1 to 2 km from market place. Some shops doubled up as information
source for hotel accommodation for tourists. Sonu took us to a shoe shop across
the street and the guy made some enquiries telephonically and informed that
there were rooms available at Praskash hotel. We took the taxi service offered
by same shop and landed atleast two km from market, through the very same road
which we traversed earlier on our trek. After dumping our luggage, it was
urgent need to book our helicopter service at Tehsildar’s office. We left in
post haste taking our driver along in our taxi, who, having kept his vehicle at
Rakcham was eager to reach home at Shimla. After crossing the Sangla market we
arrived at Tehsildar’s office situated at a higher elevation reached by steps.
At the office we found Dy. Tehsildar managing or trying to make a show of
managing tourist evacuation by Helicopter. We were told to write our name in a
plane paper and it became part of many such papers scattered on his table
written by tourist who came earlier. There was no proper registration or date
of entry or any receipt of any kind. We were told that there is a huge back log
and will be informed telephonically, as and when our turn came which could be
after 3 to 4 day. A group of foreign tourists squatting in the same room were
assured of a helicopter service the very next day; must be instruction from top
administration.
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| Prakash Hotel, Sangla |
Hotel
Prakash turned out to be a spacious and comfortable, with entry through dining
room. Reception provided us with Room 205 at the rate of Rs. 900/- for a double
room plus Rs. 200/- for additional bedding, on first floor with a clear view of
Sangla valley on one side and apple orchard on the other. The room had
unhindered view of Hills, with snow peaks becoming prominent after the recent
snowfall. For a change, our double room was provided with additional bed
consisted of folding cot with full beddings, whereas most of the hotels as our
experience show, provide with only beddings spread on floor.
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| Snow View |
Coming out of hotel and overlooking the valley is a large open
cemented place for tourist to sit and soak into the nature. Two cars were
parked, with its 18 inmates staying in the same hotel for past four days. They
had their own cook to provide the delicacy with a lot of raw materials carried
by them. They were chatting and enjoying but lurking within was the worry that
they had no news of their turn coming up for helicopter pick up for further
journey to catch train at Kalka. Daily twice a day they made it a ritual to
visit Tehsildar’s office for follow up.
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| Sunset From Sangla |
The evening sunset was a spectacle. With the recent unseasonal
snowfall, the additional snow-packs on hills reflected the setting sun; it was
time to get some footages.
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| Apple Blossom |
Next day
dawned into a bright sunlit morning. An early morning walk is the most pleasant
experience in the midst of the greeneries at Sangla which the tourist just
enjoy. One goes along the main road with both sides full of trees like Apple, Pears
, Apricot, Plum and Cherry. The numerous fruit gardens owned by local residents
lie in close vicinity, with colorful birds not to be missed. I had a catch of a
yellow bird named Indian Golden Oriole during my walk.
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Indian Golden Oriole
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The breakfast in hotel had a number of good choice menu and cost
was most reasonable compared to that I came across other towns in the state.
Having settled down, it was time to explore more of the place. A walk of 2 km
to market place for purchasing medicines which were supposed to last me upto 20th
June and withdrawing cash from SBI ATM counter was a priority. Sangla in this
respect offered basic requirements of every tourist. My two friends walked to
Tehsildar’s office for updating on helicopter service. As usual the officer was
in no position to guarantee any service immediately. The tourist backlog was in
hundreds. Our Rakcham hotel manager had entered our names along with other
inmates of his hotel the day before and we were told the serial number of round
142. The helicopter service being erratic, one could not hazard any guess about
length of our captivity in this Kinnaur town.
22nd June was a hugely disappointing day. For the
entire day no helicopter flights were seen. The hotel was a scattered with
cluster of tourists discussing the bleak prospect of getting out of their
forced hibernation. My travel mates were equally anxious contemplating of
trekking through the valley for Karcham a distance of 14 km through some
unknown terrain. However, I was in no mood to undertake the trek and join them.
I had made up my mind to stay put in safety of hotel till I was able to take my
helicopter flight. Most of inmates of the hotel were equally worried about
their important dates and reluctant to wait for the copter service. All through
the travails at Sangla, the long walks through the scenic place, photography
and videography kept me somewhat calm.
23rd June did not bring any cheers either. There was
no whining sound from blue sky nor any sign of helicopters. My two travel
mates, having made up their mind, hired a porter to take their luggage, set off
at 7.30 am in a hired car for a distance of about 5 km from where they were to
resume their trek. I gave them company and saw them off upto a point where the
road had collapsed, stopping the road bound traffic. They promised to send me
the info after reaching Karcham, from where the road were supposed to be in
order for further journey.
Back to hotel for hot water bath – thankfully the electricity was
restored. As I was loafing around the
hotel after breakfast, the Bengali group like other tourists were fidgety and
were slowly getting mentally prepared for the trek. By 10 am with still no sign
of copter, they could not take it anymore and just boarded their cars and drove
off bag and baggage, for a trek to unknown with a hope in heart to come out of
the strangle-hold and reach Kalka to catch their train. One could not blame
them as they were exasperated of visiting Tehsildar’s office time and again
with no assurance of copter flight. The administrative lapses and unsystematic
approach by them was apparent. Otherwise, how the group members were stranded
in Sangla for past six days?
Loneliness suddenly hits you. The feeling becomes more apparent when
you think whether it was a wise decision to stay put in a hotel, which
everybody vacated? Around 12 pm, I was having a chat with Mohan Prakash, the young
hotel owner who sensing my state of mind asked me to take walk across the slope
above hotel Prakash Regency ( another of his newly built luxury hotel ) to pass
my time. He also suggested that I should talk to his father who has lived all
his life at Sangla and will be able to provide much info for my Sangla
blog.
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| Prakash Regency, Sangla |
The fruit orchards and flower garden behind Prakash regency kept
me occupied for a while and at around lunch time I was back to hotel and found Mohan
Prakash’s father taking his lunch. My conversation with Mr. Om Prakash Aswan
Negi on overview of Sangla Social life was very revealing and interesting.
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| Helicopter Sortie |
In afternoon, while resting in my room, I heard the welcome whining
sound of helicopter. Peeping through window it was apparent that the helicopter
service was resuming. It was 3.30 pm. Our hotel was empty save for me. From
other hotels, tourists made their way to helipad some 5 km away. I was not so
sure of securing a place in today’s service considering the backlog; the same
thought was shared by Mr. Mohan Prakash. In any case I was not in a mood to
reach Rampur in evening for undertaking further journey. At 5 pm, Mohan Prakash
informed me that there was some chance of getting into today’s flight. However,
I had made up my mind of staying for an additional day and check out by next
morning. Meanwhile the last helicopter flight left at 5.30 pm. In evening there
was info that, at the helipad our names were called for the copter flight, as
many tourists had left Sangla by trekking route. Seeing my chance lost, I
decided that come what may I must leave Sangla by next morning.
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| Copter Against Sky |
On 24th I got up early, had a bath, sans breakfast,
checked out of hotel to reach helipad by 8 am. Already some 20 tourists were
waiting at the helipad gate. Some were coming back after not being able to
avail yesterday’s flight and others who were hoping to get into today’s flight.
Only 20 tourists were allowed to go right upto the helipad which is situated at
a higher elevation and were made to line up on the road around the central
landing site. Around 8.30 am we were allowed to go inside and made to sit on a
tarpaulin spread on floor near the warehouse like structure. Still, no copter
in sight.
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| Helipad, Sangla |
Around 9 am we climbed the stairs to the elevated area and were
allowed to wait at a place from where we could see all the action like
helicopter landing, tourists boarding and take off. Munching biscuits and just
loafing around till about 10.30 am when I could hear the welcome drone of
copter sound and gradually to our relief copter landed and immediately huge
amount of cargo was removed. Tourists who were lined up were made to board,
about 20 of them. After an hour the second sortie also took off.
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| Helicopter Landed |
I was in third list and at 1.30 pm, we were asked to sit near
helipad on road. By 2.30 pm copter came and landed. We were seated so near the
helipad that, the landing process of copter, rotating blades blowing a storm
around it, as if it will blow one away. Seated on the road with my back to the
copter, I had to hold tight on my cap lest it gets blown away. The copter rotor
coming to standstill, door opened and what followed was unloading of cargos
meant for Sangla and beyond.
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| Tourists In Helicopter |
Getting inside the Copter was the most relieving and happy
moment of my present trip. The sideways seat inside copter left space in the
middle for keeping luggage. After a few minutes, I took off for the first ever
copter flight of my life. Flying at low altitude very near to the hill slopes
and green cover, view of rivers flowing and narrow hill roads, was a visual
worth capturing.
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| View From Copter |
Most of the tourists were shooting through window and enjoying;
I had my Handycam busy to capture the exciting half an hour. The slight
discomfort could be whining noise of the rotor blade. Reaching Rampur was like
coming out of captivity and the roads to lead me for further journey to Shimla.
Sangla Footages can be accessed from following captioned link:
Important Informations:
1. Accommodations:
a) Hotel
Prakash: Owner – Mohan Prakash
Cell Nos.
098162 83268 / 091805187680 / 0730770 82136
b) Prakash Regency
– same as above
c) Shruti
Guest House : Owner – Shrawan Kumar
d) Banjara
Camps: Cell Nos. 09816119871 / 09418758111
2.
Sightseeing:
a) Local:
Sangla Village & Baspa river: 1/2 km from market
b) Rakcham:
14 km & Chitkul 24 km
3.
Communication: BSNL & Airtel network
4. Climate:
During Summer May / June, hot during day and pleasant during early morning and
evening.
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