On 30th
April 2014, leaving behind Kalpa – the finest of destinations in Kinnaur
valley, traveling along NH22, we were looking forward to stepping into Spiti
valley at higher elevations and freezing weather in early summer. We had a
short break at Rekong Peo for purchasing the essential food items for the
journey – mostly fruits and biscuits and ready to eat snacks – one gets every commodity in this place. Crossing
Poari, our car had a sudden halt behind a few cars overlooking a lot of
activity on road ahead. Boulders and rocks of various sizes fallen from the
hills cluttered on a large area were holding up traffic at both ends. A bulldozer
was in action nudging loose rocks from the hill slope, making them fall and pushing
them towards the road edge and giving them a shove. It was fascinating to watch
them rolling down the hill slope, thousand feet deep down the gorge, raising a
lot of dust, finally landing by the side of flowing Sutlej river.
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| Road Clearing after Poari |
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| Confluence - Sutlej & Spiti, Khab |
Post noon,
we had a break near Khab at the confluence of rivers Sutlej & Spiti, with
rivers carrying lot of silt had but still with a distinct identity of their
own. A good half an hour later we were on the usual winding hill road and a
break in early afternoon providing us with a good opportunity to stretch our
legs and watch the serpentine roads at different elevations. The roaring Spiti
river flowing down below in a deep gorge kept us glued at the spot for some
moments.
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| Spiti river view nearing Nako |
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| Landscape nearing Nako |
Climbing higher, we were still in Kinnaur valley with none of
its usual greenery – only stark mountains carrying snow from the previous
winter. Watching the hills getting larger and covering almost the entire
panorama; it was landscape at its best. Nearing Nako, the dark soil in
agri-plots was being readied for potato cultivation. Nako potatoes are famous
for their giant size and some of them weighing even up to 1 kg and having a
good export market. Although Nako lake was only about one km away, as per our
itinerary, we were to visit this destination during our return trip from Kaza.
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| Potato fields nearing Nako |
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| Potato fields Close-up |
By 5 pm we passed through the arched welcome gate of Gue
village. Here the Tibetan Monk Mummy encased in a glass casket and installed
inside single storied Bhavan is a tourist attraction. Normally the doors to the
Bhavan are locked. When entering the village, our driver did not forget to
inform the villagers our intention of seeing Gue Mummy from close proximity. A
kid with the keys to the Bhavan accompanied us in car. He stayed put till our
visit was over, to re-lock the doors of the Bhavan and we dropped him back to
the village.
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| Gue village entry gate |
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| Tibetan Monk Mummy |
Tabo barely half an hour drive from Gue, we reached our
destination in the evening, still some time in our hand before sunset. As
planned we straightaway went near the Monastery area looking for accommodation
in Millennium Guest house managed by Tabo monastery. The place was open but not
a single soul was visible. That was disappointing. We could see one more hotel
but to our dismay that was also closed. The only course left for us to go to
Hotel Dewachen Retreat, a pricey hotel as found by us from net, who open up
their property in April onwards. The rooms costing Rs. 4000/- plus per day was
not what we ever imagined we would have to shell out. We had some difficulty in
tracing this hotel, which we passed by earlier. One villager gave us a clue and
told us to find it next to Theka (a
country liquer joint )
We entered through the exquisitely carved doors of a wonderful
looking single storied hotel, with a grand foyer. We were welcomed by the
manager and he told us that rooms are available and he would charge Rs. 2000/-
per day at a discounted rate, since the piped water supply was not available.
Having no choice but to check in to spend the night, a final bargain price of
Rs. 1600/- was agreed upon and we stepped into the room with good ambience –
the only deficiency was piped water, which were offered through buckets. Sachin
lost no time in preparing for our daily fruit break before dinner. The dinner
at the basement dining hall was simple but tasty vegetarian fare.
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| Hotel Dewachen Retreat |
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| Rear view from Hotel |
Next morning we were woken up by constant chattering of sparrows
on the tree in the compound. This town has too many of these birds. Every
housetop having a layer of hay on roof, they find it easy to squeeze in for
dwelling. The vista from rear verandah looked great with distant view of Monastery,
temples and chortens (stupas) with a foreground having vast tract of
cultivation plots. Early summer has its own beauty of splattered snow on
distant hills not yet melted to reveal its rugged surface. The electricity
being quite dependable in Himachal so far, I lost no time to get my electric
kettle going to heat water for my cup of instant tea. A morning walk is lively
in any Himalayan destination. This place was no exception. A short walk on main
road and then a shortcut through mud-tracks behind the hotel landed us in no
time in the monastery compound. There are several temples and mud plastered
Chortens (stupas)depicting a mix of old and new architecture.
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| Monastery Compound Gate |
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| Mud plastered Chorten ( Stupa ) |
After breakfast it was time for Sachin to trek to Cave shrine on
top of the hill, visible from hotel gate. I had the alternate plan of visiting
Tabo village for a leisurely walk and watch the village life from close
proximity. Snow melting process starting in early summer, the villagers were
found busy on agri-plots, shoveling or digging through the soil and also
guiding bullocks in cultivating the field.
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| Tabo village |
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| Greenhouse - Tabo village |
A greenhouse had a woman filling the dark soil in plastic bags as
a daily chore. The enclosed place has flowering plants, spinach saplings and
tiny plants as a part of raising the plants in the initial days without getting
the onslaught of cold weather and windy conditions outdoors and also not to get
chewed by herbivores. The valley has a large watery area created out of snow
melt and also serves as water for agri-plots and non-potable water requirements
of habitants of Tabo.
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| Villager at Work |
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| Cultivation of plot |
Sachin returrning from his trek, narrates
his experience of trek to cave shrine. In his words, “Tabo Monastery is famous
all over the world for its sculptures and paintings. When Spiti was still
closed for tourists in 1970s, there was a massive earthquake in Spiti. The
earthquake severally damaged houses, temples, and monasteries in Spiti. We have
no clue which part of Tabo Monastery is old and which is rebuilt. During old
days due to severe winter, monks used to abandon the Monastery for many days
and stay at the caves. However due to ‘modernization’ and availability of
better facilities, the practice had been discontinued.
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| *View from top |
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| *Nearing cave shrine |
Tabo Caves are on left side of the
road while travelling from Kinnaur. Cemented steps have been built to visit the
caves. Some caves are very small with slippery path off the main cemented
stepped road; hence I did not visit them. Other caves were approachable via
cemented steps and I visited them. These caves had been converted into small
shrines with doors and ceiling. Entry to these shrines was only up to the
assembly / prayer hall; inside rooms were locked. As per printed travel guide,
Pho Gompa was the major shrine; however, there was no indication at the site. Answer
to many questions [(such as) how many days the monks used to stay at caves, how
they used to live, remain unanswered.”
Readers can
also watch the visuals on Tabo as per the following captioned linK:
* Images by Sachin Vaidya
Important
Info:
In Spiti
valley, Tabo will rank as a destination, almost on flat ground without those
going ups and downs and exerting oneself. Local village is a lively walk for
observing the lifestyle of local villagers. Monastery, temples and Stupas are
worthwhile spending some time. There are not too many accommodations for the
tourists. The Millenium guest house managed by Monastery is perhaps cheapest
with reasonable accommodation and simple food at a cost of around Rs. 400/- per
day. It would in certainly be available in mid-May onwards. A few hotels
managed privately owners will also be available around the same time. Only
Dewachen Retreat – a top of the line accommodation is available from April.
Piped water at Tabo will be available from 5th May onwards. The room
costs Rs. 4000/- plus once piped water is available. Dewachen Retreat can be
booked by contacting Mr. Rajinder Bodh on mobile no (0)9459566689, hotel mobile
no. (0)94598 83443.
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