Hopping through Himachal in a bid to spend at least one night at
all the Spiti Valley destinations, on 1st May, we had late morning
start from Tabo for our second destination Dhankar, some 32 km way. Initial
drive took us to the elevation slightly above the valley. At some distance but
very clearly visible, the rivers Spiti and Pin encompassing a small island with
cottages, were making an early summer
effort to mingle with each other carrying very low volume of snow-melt. The
sand bed carried the impressions of flow of water taking place on numerous
occasions through the season when the course of river varies depending on water
volume. The water depth at the moment was not even ankle deep. The backdrop
the snow – splattered hills cradling the valley looked great. On right hand
side, a section of hill with sheer dark brown vertical cliffs appeared to be of
strength and character. Amidst those cliffs, Dhankar monastery looked
conspicuous because of the red and white structure clutching the hill side.
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| Spiti Valley View |
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| Dhankar - A Distant View |
The remaining part of the drive to Dhankar was going uphill and
watching the grand vista of Spiti valley. The best place to take a picture of confluence
of rivers Spiti and Pin was at the 3 km milestone. Moments later, reaching the
arched gate of Dhankar dwelling, we were bang in front of New Dhankar Monastery
complex. It has a Monastery and a Monastery managed guest house - where we were
planning to stay. The place appeared to be desolate and closed like many other
places in Spiti valley at this time of the year. Inquiry with a lone villager
revealed that accommodation can be had at a home stay facility with
waterless toilet. This not being acceptable for us, we decided to change our
itinerary and move on with our sightseeing trip to Lalung and then proceed to
Kaza.
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| 3 km Mark - Spiti & Pin river Confluence |
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| Entering Dhankar |
The drive to Lalung turned out to be mesmerizing with some of the
finest views of the valley. The confluence region of Pin and Spiti rivers were
visible directly from top. Nearing Lalung we were above the snow-line; on the
right side the freshly accumulated snow was at the scooping distance from our
seated position in car and on the left astounding visual of snow covered
terrain. Lalung is a typical collection of cottages on hill slope. Facing the
onslaught of the cold winds was not a very promising thing to do at this site –
so, Sachin quickly left for a sightseeing visit to Lalung Gompa and myself just
content to lazing seated in the car.
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| On Way to Lalung |
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| Above Snow - line |
On way back to Dhanakar, we were contemplating of giving one
more shot for locating the elusive accommodation for the night’s stay. Alternately
we could proceed to Kaza, throwing our entire itinerary to toss. As we passed
by the New Dhankar complex and proceeded towards the old Dhankar monastery, we
halted near a two storied Guest House named Tanzin - depicted on a hardly
noticeable weather battered signage. I do not remember how we confronted the
owner of the Guest House, it was a coincidence none the less. The person told us
that the property owned by him is run by another fellow on out-sourcing basis
and being early season he has not yet arrived. Fortunately, he opened
a room for us costing Rs. 500/- per night. It was encouraging to get a decent room
with attached bath with proper fittings but the water had to be carried from a
huge PVC tank located downstairs as the piped water was not available.
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| Lalung Gompa |
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| Tanzin Guest House |
Once we settled down, we were supplied with water through jerry
can, which could be used for our washroom needs. The cold and windy conditions
in evenings discomforting us, we welcomed invitation for a cup of tea in the
warm kitchen. Over a cup of tea, the owner gave us a surprise, which got us
thinking once again. Shortly, he was to leave Dhankar for his work site somewhere
down-hill. None the less, we were told to make ourselves comfortable. The
dinner was to be cooked by us with whatever provision available in the kitchen.
It seems only Rajma was available. Our driver was happy to get a chance to try
his cooking skills and promised of cooking Rajma curry, Roti and Rice. The
kitchen, a medium size room has a gas oven and utensils on one side and on the
three sides were bordered with cushions for seating. At the center was located
an elliptical shaped drum having a firewood burning arrangement, a pipe for
leading out the flue gas and three openings for keeping utensils for heating
water. The hot water is used for cooking and other needs. The room itself is
kept warm by radiating heat from a metallic outer cover. It took quite some
time for our driver to complete the cooking as in high altitudes food takes
more time to cook fully. The simple food tasted heavenly to our famished souls.
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| View from Guest House verandah |
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| New Dhankar Monastery Complex |
Morning of 2nd May saw Sachin taking off for 3 km
uphill trek to Dhankar lake along with a local guide. Meanwhile I had kept myself
busy shooting some landscapes from comfort of guest house verandah. On right
hand side, the the old Dhankar monestary nestled amidst some vertical cliffs,
looked daunting enough for a sightseeing. Down the slope in the vegetation – less
brown colored mud-stone terrain, the habitation was sprawling with almost
identical two storied cottages. Some unmelted snow looked as if valiantly
holding on to it’s pristine glory, defying the strong sunlight it was exposed
to. It was a matter of time before they also succumbed to the melting process
of early summer.
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| Dhankar Village View |
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| Old Dhankar Gompa & Landscape |
I had a walk upto the Gompa gate, not venturing inside. The space to squeeze through did not seem to
have a safe and sure footing and looked somewhat scary. Our driver Sohan Singh
was content to wash the car near Gompa with a piped water outlet constantly
emptying out the snow-melt from higher reaches. I was waiting for Sachin to
join me after his trek to Dhankar lake. We had another important journey to do,
traveling via the picturesque Pin valley.
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| Way to Dhankar Lake* |
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| Dhankar Lake* |
On his return, Sachin narrated his 3 km Dhankar lake trek details.
Content to have a guide who helped him going across through some snow-laden
areas, they reached on hill top to see a frozen lake, only expected at this
time of the year. The Chorten or Buddhist stupa by the lake side looked
elegant. The circumambulation of the lake was not possible because of the
scattered snow in all possible directions. Their hasty retreat was to have a
brief visit to Old Dhankar Gompa and to pack up for the further journey.
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| Dhankar Lake View Full* |
Loading our luggage on the car, once again, we had a problem in
our hand. In the desolate guest house with absence of any staff, We did not
know how to pay the room rent the food expenses. On driver’s suggestion we kept
the money Rs. 800/- in all on the cooking platform of the kitchen room and
heaved a sigh of relief, hoping the owner will receive it when he returned to
hotel. Thus we left the guest house all empty for the next group of tourists to
hop in. Hoping they do find some soul taking care of the place.
Dhankar Visuals can be accessed by taking the
following captioned link:
Important
Info:
Tourists
will do well to visit Dhankar after 7th of May in early summer so
that accommodation is not an issue. The Monastery guest house will be possibly
a cheap alternative. We discovered the Tanzin guest house, which happened to be
a decent accommodation. With piped water in it may cost about Rs. 800/- per
night. Sightseeing would be 5 km drive to Lalung Gompa, 3 km trek to Dhankar
Lake and visit to Old as well as new monastery. The Spti valley view with
confluence of rivers Spiti and Pin will keep one glued to the site. The Dhankar
dwelling being located on hill slope, a lot of walk will be ups and downs.
Nature lovers will none the less find this place a worthwhile visit.
* Images by Sachin Vaidya
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