By noon of
2nd May 2014, we left behind Dhankar for our onward journey through
Pin valley planning to go as far as Mud. Going down towards the river bed of Spiti
valley, we had a break for watching the confluence of rivers Spiti and Pin from
Close proximity. Though water volume of both the rivers was low, they had a distinctive
color of their own.
 |
| Confluence of Spiti & Pin rivers - distant view |
 |
| Confluence of Spiti & Pin rivers - Close view |
As we
crossed Attargu bridge and stepped into Pin valley, the topography changed
dramatically. On the river side, big chunks of snow melting in early summer added
volume of water to the Pin river. The going became somewhat rough through the
patches of mud track. The river bed got a lot of silt carried from hills above.
The debris getting piled up, it must have been some work to clear the road to
keep some of the most remote villages in Pin valley to have its lifeline open.
 |
| Snow-melt feeding Pin river |
 |
| Silt Deposition in Pin valley |
Further
through the valley, the silting became so much so as to prevent the Pin river
from running its natural course and the accumulated water gave rise to a giant
lake with even the electric poles found submerged in water. The snow mass floating
on water and larger one’s crumbing into different shape made a fascinating
sight.
 |
Glacial lake - Pin valley
|
 |
| Snow mass around lake |
When we
arrived Kungri after deviating from main road and taking a narrow road upwards,
the topography changed yet again. It was lively with colorful cottages a midst cultivating plots. The villagers took to their task making use of giant Yaks to
plough their fields. We parked our car inside the large monastery compound.
 |
| Ploughing plot at Kungri |
 |
| Tringon guest house |
The
Monastery area was quite lively with young would be lamas having a game of
marble or volleyball. The façade of the entry to new monastery named as Ugyen
Sanag Choling monastery is a huge structure with hostel facilities for Lamas
and Lama students. The old monastery is a single storied structure and was open
for a visit. There was too much snow piled up for negotiating though the
compound. Tringon Guest House building looked impressive for tourists who plan
to stay overnight.
 |
| Old Monastery - Kungri |
 |
| Ugyen Choling Monastery gate |
Entering
through the gate, we came to courtyard of the new monastery. The peripheral
area having living quarters for lamas and students appeared to be deserted. The
monastery itself colorful and elegantly designed structure with glass façade
reflecting the snow-capped hills looked awesome. I came out and walked to the
left hand side of old monastery to the view point area from where one gets
fascinating bird’ eye view of Pin valley. Pin river flowing in serpentine
manner in between heavily snow-covered area, with the backdrop of snow
splattered hills. There is safety railing at the edge to make it safe for
visitors.
 |
| Ugyen Choling Monastery - Kungri |
 |
| Pin Valley view from Kungri |
Nearing
Sagnam, we had a break to view at a distance, the Pin Structure in Khar
village. Possibly the name of Pin river and Pin valley has its origin here.
Crossing the bridge, the last lap of the journey to Sagnam on a plateau with
fresh snow in all direction took us to snow-land. The barren trees and
occasional cottages gave a dimension to the scenario.
 |
| Pin structure at Khar - Pin valley |
 |
| Bridge to Sagnam - Pin valley |
Reaching
Sagnam we had a break for lunch at PWD Guest House. The Sagnam village is well
spread out, one of the biggest we have seen so far, with large agricultural
plots growing green Pea, barley and buck wheat. Villagers keep busy making use
of giant Yaks for tilling work. The entire family of villagers seemed to be out
there including children. The PWD Rest House, did provide us with lunch, but
with no piped water and the wash rooms not being usable, it was not worthwhile
staying here. Post lunch we decided to forgo the last 10 km drive to Mud with
snow-blocks expected to block the road and deciding in not taking any risk
whatsoever. We traveled 36 km to Kaza ( 11,980’), with slight change in
itinerary.
 |
| Tilling Plots at Sagnam - Pin Valley |
 |
| PWD Resthouse at Sagnam |
Arriving in
Kaza by main road, the first hotel we came across was Snow Lion Hotel. With no
booking in kitty, we looked around for somebody in reception area. Motubhai – a
short medium built guy did not appear to be fat as his name suggests is
receptionist-cum-whatever you can think of, gave us a room with balcony overlooking
the well spread out Kaza town. Being early season the hotel had just opened six
rooms. But, the running water to the town had not resumed so we were to manage
with water brought in buckets by hotel staff from a pipeline outside. At Rs.
600/- per day, the room rent appeared to be value for money at that point of
time. Sakya monastery located at the diametrically opposite on main road looked
the most colorful and imposing in the town.
The Hindu temple at slightly higher elevation had some steps to climb.
The well spread out town with mostly single and occasional two storied
structure serviced by interconnecting roads looked lively.
 |
| Kaza town & Sakya monastery |
 |
| Hindu temple on hill - Kaza |
Evening was
unwinding time. The dining cum reception area of the hotel has a library with
good collection of books and tourists maps to pass time. Most interesting part
was a huge collection of fossils behind glass case. Motubhai was chatting away
about his experience in locating fossils in his expeditions in higher altitudes
every year. After ordering for dinner going towards my room, what caught my
attention was a few twigs of plants in compound which were being surrounded by
ice blocks. Water being scarce and snow easily available, on a bright sunlit
day the ice-melt feeding the plants was a practical solution. The dinner was
freshly prepared from vegetables brought from market on same evening by
Motubhai himself.
 |
| Hotel Snow Lion - Kaza |
 |
| Ice at roots for moisture - Kaza |
Morning of
3rd May gave us a opportunity to visit higher altitude of Langza (14,520’)
and beyond, condition permitting. As we were leaving the fringes of Kaza town, there
was a car parked charging some kind of unofficial toll of Rs. 100/-. They gave
a receipt which did not make much sense. Going up we got a classic view of
Spiti valley in early summer. The patterns of water flow on sand bed and the
adjoining topography was any landscape photographer’s delight.
 |
| Spiti Valley view from Kaza uphill |
 |
| Spiti valley view from Kaza uphill |
Further up,
we were going through snow-line, with scattered snow on both side of the road.
The Langza village has a Buddha statue at an higher elevation standing like a
lone sentinel with scattered single storied cottages on a flat land bereft of
any vegetation. The backdrop of snow splattered hills gave a scenic touch to
the village.
 |
| Signage - Langza village |
 |
| Langza village |
Going
higher up, the snow quantum went on increasing. The car was moving slow through
muddy track because of snow melt flowing to the road. To avoid skidding, following
the tire-marks was the only option and avoiding snow cover at all cost. We
sighted a bulldozer busy in clearing the snow piled up to open up the road to Comic
and Hikkim. Here we got stuck up for good. We gathered that the road clearing
process was to be completed before 7th May, the day the Lok Sabha
elections were to be held in this region. Leaving with no option but to retreat,
we got down from car, walking through mud for taking a few photos.
 |
| Road block beyond Langza |
 |
| Through snow obstacle |
Forgoing
our journey to Comic and Hikkim, we rued the fact that we were tad early for
this kind of an adventure. Ideally one should visit these places after 15th
May. Retreating through mud packed roads was slow and cautious. Reaching Kaza
we had lunch and some rest before taking a narrow mud-track suitable for people
to save a lot of walking time through the main road. Nearing market place the
roads are broader. The tea break at a wayside restaurant and walking through
the area having cluster of winter clothing shop, my wish of buying gloves for
very low temperature, materialized. Reaching the main road we were in front of
Sakya Monastery in no time.
 |
| Sakya Monastery |
 |
| Buddha statue - Sakya monastery |
As had been
our experience, early summer always greet us with closed doors of Monastery at
Himachal. We were contemplating what to do when we found young lama students
playing nearby. Inquiry with them revealed that they will be opening the doors
for us to view monastery from inside.
 |
| Colorful interior - Sakya monastery |
 |
| Trumpets on display |
What a revelation!
I have never seen such a colorful, neat, spotlessly clean and exquisite
interiors. The golden Buddha statue at the centre surrounded by smaller statues
and artifacts made a wonderful décor. The array of musical instruments like trumpets,
Drum, conch shells and cymbals were on dispaly – every item neatly arranged had
beauty of its own.
 |
| Drum, cymbals and conch shells |
 |
| Cymbals at display |
While
retreating and trying to take a short cut to go back to hotel at the other extremity,
we somehow lost our way and discovered some newer places. One of them was a
tree lined road leading our eye to distant hotel named Hotel Winter White
appropriately named with a backdrop of snow splattered hills.
 |
| Bell at Sakya Monastery |
 |
| Picture perfect road at Kaza |
Next day we
left for Kee and Kibber for couple of days (which will be another travel story)
before retracing to Kaza yet again for a night halt at same Snow Lion Hotel. The
room rent had shot up to Rs.1000/- because of resumption of piped water supply
to washrooms. Following day we commenced return journey via Nako in Kinnaur
Valley.
Readers can see couple of short videos of Kaza as per the following captioned links:
Kaza at a Glance
Sakya Monastery at Kaza
* Title Image is by Sachin Vaidya: Kaza town as viewed from Hindu temple.
……………………………………………………………………………………
