On morning of 6th May 2014, we left behind Kaza,
commencing our return journey. We were headed for Nako ( 11,800’) - a high
altitude destination belonging to Pooh divisions of Kinnaur district. Going
along NH22, a diversion road from Yangthang going 7 km uphill leads us to
Nako. As we ascend, the topography
resembles more like that of vegetation less Spiti region rather than lush green
valleys of Kinnaur to which Nako belongs. Having acclimatized for harsh cold climate and high altitude at Kaza,
Kibber and Pin valley, we surmised Nako will cause no problems.
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| Nearing Nako - Village View |
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| Nako Lke - Partly Hidden |
At 1.30 pm, reaching the fringes of Nako village, black soil
bearing enormous potato cultivation plots with the backdrop of towering
snow-capped hills making their appearance. The dense cluster of cottages of the
village appeared to hide Nako lake cradled at a lower elevation. Our first
priority was to hunt for a hotel with a lake facing view. We came across a few
hotels but not to our liking. Going upward along the mud track, we had a first
glimpse of the lake, partially hidden. Taking a turn, it took some guiding from
a villager to squeeze our Tavera car without hitting the boundary walls of
adjoining plots to park it next to the hotel- a three storied structure.
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| Lake View from Opposite Bank |
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| Lake View Hotel |
The Lake View Hotel is in a vantage location giving a clear view
of lake. It has small cultivation plots in front to grow vegetables. As luck would have it, a few rooms were
vacant and a room on ground floor at Rs.1,500/- per day became our shelter for
the night. Barely 2 pm, after a light
lunch and some rest, a walk by the lake side was for asking. Along the cement
track adjoining the lake and coming to bang opposite of where our hotel is
located, we got a full view of Nako village at slightly higher elevation. The
well spread out village, consisting of cluster of houses, comprises of nearly
572 people belonging to 128 families. Their major occupation happens to be
potato cultivation.
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| Fishing in Lake |
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| The Catch |
Walking along the lakeside brought us close to a villager, who
was busy with his fishing, making use of a long thread with one end tied to a
rock and other end with hook. After some attempts he did manage a few small
fishes. The rather small lake had its
share of submerged reeds along the edge. The tall trees on the distant end
could have been planted to make it look more scenic with its reflection on
placid lake water. In early summer, the tree trunk and branches looked lifeless brown with
scanty pale green leaves, having taken the brunt of harsh winter onslaught.
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| *Nako Monastery |
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| Buddhist Temple |
Around 5 pm, the sunlight still strong, we took to the extreme
north end of the village to arrive at 11th Century Monastic
compound. The Monastery building looked colorful and majestic. The gate being
closed, as early summer has very few tourists visiting this place. The four
Buddhist temples constructed out of mud-stone looks primitive no doubt, but
colored in brick red, have a beauty of their own. The mud plastered Stupas also called Chortens, add to
religious fervor of Buddhism, very common in destinations in Indian Himalayas.
It was becoming rather cold with chill winds blowing so we finished with our
sightseeing as early as we could and returned to hotel for the evening to be
locked up in room after giving order for
dinner . The dinner was simple but curry made out of giant local potatoes was
delicious and some desi ghee added,
made it divine.
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| Nako Lake View from Elevation |
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| Nako Lake - Full View |
The next morning downed with a bright sunlit day to lift our
spirits in biting cold of high altitude destination. In my journey through
Himalayas, I relished early morning walks through the village. Before taking to
village trail, in quest for getting some goods shots of the lake, I walked
through the mud stone track uphill to get a vantage view of Nako lake. A large
number of Mani stones occupied
scattered on roadside, adding a divine dimension to the place. The lake looked magnificent
in sunlit morning, with its deep blue water reflecting the trees, some portion
of the village and distant snow capped hill, to make up the entire
canvass.
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| Mani Stones at Nako |
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| Buddhist Temple at Nako Village |
Retreating back towards hotel, I took a narrow walking track
behind the hotel, going towards village. The single storied houses very close
to each other was followed by a colorful Buddhist temple which kept me busy for
a few minutes. Not knowing anything of the village, I took to general direction
towards north end of village, walking parallel to lake. The early morning is
time for villagers to collect fodder for their domesticated animals, which
predominantly consisted of milch animals, horses and sheep. At the extreme end
of village, a cultivation plot revealed some greenery at last.
Early summer being beginning of cultivation time, it was too
early to see the greenery in potato fields. But, our driver Sohan managed to
procure one Nako grown giant potato, weighing more than 500 grams, a produce of
last season.
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| Nako Village View & Cultivation Plots |
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| Driver Sohan with Prized Possession |
Important
info:
1) Nako, in
Kinnaur Valley is worthwhile spending a few days. Lake View Hotel is located closest to Nako
lake and booking can be done in advance as per following info:
2) Car hire
for Himachal Pradesh destinations: Sohan Travel Services, Main Bazar, Dhalli,
Shimla – 171012, email: sohanbushahri@gmail.com
Cell: 098166 48573, 094597 30916
Readers can
see the video clip on Nako by taking the following captioned link:
* Photo contribution by Sachin Vaidya
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