Binsar – A Multi-Dimensional Destination On Kumaon Hills

5^th November 2011

My Kumaon trip in November did not begin on a happy note. One of our tour mates had to drop out due to family reasons. Sachin and me carried on with a program charted out on our own. For the past four years we have not availed any of the package tours about which many travel companies vie with each other. We normally hired a car from base destination on daily lump-sum basis for the duration of our tour. That leaved us a lot of flexibility to travel as per our chalked out program or make any course correction, if necessary, in the mid-way through the trip. 

We reached Haldwani, which can be called as gateway to Kumaon Himalayas, a little after mid-night. The Sharda hotel, which we had booked was not far from station but turned out to be far from satisfactory with cockroach infested rooms, dirty towels; the only saving grace was availability of hot water in the next morning. We packed and checked out to our relief and also felt relieved to see our hired Indica car waiting to pick us up. 

At Starting Point, Haldwani

Our car driver happened to be an energetic young guy from Kumaon. Leaving Haldwani and Kathgodam behind, we were on hilly terrain. The first destination we encountered was Bhimtal and took a photo break. A picturesque lake with a boating facility, we did not lose much time to take a few snaps and some footage of video and decided to move on. 

Bhimtal

Seated on the window side we viewed a few of the cluster of seven lakes, the most prominent being named as  Sat Tal. This lake had boating facility, huge area amidst nature for picnic party revelers. The boats were decorated exquisite; some even had a huge dragon-head on frontal portion.  It took nearly half an hour to cover some of the lake areas. 

Sat Tal

On Bhowali – Almora road we came across Kainchi Temple  complex. The funny name Kainchi which means scissors has nothing to with this temple. The approaching road to this temple complex has two hair pin bends and hence the name Kainchi. The orange coloured temples looked great when viewed from the road at higher elevation.  

Kainchi Temple View

We entered the Binsar forested area by late afternoon. Sheer density of tall trees stopped the sunlight completely. Just before the entry gate to the Sanctuary, we noticed two beautiful looking rest houses named Kalmatia Sangam Himalayan Resort and Imperial Heights respectivly. At the entry gate, we went through the formalities like paying for entry permit valid for three days at the rate of Rs. 150/- per person and Rs. 250/- for the car. The driver was spared of the charges. We had a glance at a small shop named AIPEE selling organic food and cosmetics from Kumaon. We decided to buy something from this shop during our return journey.   

                                                                      

We travelled through the asphalt road within the forested area for nearly half an hour to reach Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam Rest house. Checking done, we were given a double Super Deluxe room as per our booking the room on KMVN website, with a nice view of Himalayan ranges and also the view of the huge terraced area on adjoining structure, which is a relaxing place for tourists and for watching the sunrise view in early morning.  

Viewing Terrace, KMVN Binsar

With evening approaching, it was getting very cold. We had some tea at the canteen and walked over the terrace facing the backside fencing beyond which there was a dense forested area. Above the tree level the Himalayan Panorama can be watched seated on plastic chairs. The colourful flowers in the lawns added a touch of grandeur to the KMVN cottages.  We were planning to stretch our legs in the vicinity of the rest house; at the reception we were told, if we hurry, we would be able to reach the Forest Rest House, a short walk, a little beyond which the Sunset Point is located. We reached the Forest Rest House in quick 15 minutes; the bungalow appeared to be deserted.  A little distance towards Sun Point and we froze. Through the trees at a distance the setting sun was in its last few minute’s journey to augur the beginning of darkness. I shot some videos and regretted for not having brought the tripod along. In any case we decided to come a little early the next day to re-shoot the sunset from the actual Sunset Point. Returning, we made some enquiries and found the Uttaranchal Govt. guides were available for taking the tourists on a jungle walk in the day time, at the rate of Rs. 250/- per hour. We decided to think about it the next day.   

The buffet dinner which came along with room rent was a great relief in this forested area with no semblance of any habitation, leave alone a restaurant, anywhere near the guest house.  The tasty fare was mostly vegetarian with an egg curry thrown in for non-vegetarians, including a sweet dish. Returning to room in the shivering cold we planned for the next day’s program of having a sunrise view from terrace and a jungle walk with or without guide.

6^th November 2011

We woke up early to watch the sunrise from the rooftop of adjoining structure. Donning all our warm cloths, standing, with a gentle cool breeze sending down chill, we watched the sunrise and the golden – orange hues on some of the Himalayan peaks.  With tripod in place, I had some of the finest video clips through my Handycam. The extravaganza lasted for about 20 minutes. Binsar happens to be a unique place, where the rising sun and the resultant glow on Himalayas, both the spectacles, are available simultaneously. The last minute capture of the rising sum appears to give a sunny smile appearance, akin to the picture of smiley we see so often in web text pages. 

Sunrise View

Sunny Smile - Sunrise at Binsar

After taking the morning tea, coming on the road, we decided to do away with official guide and ventured on our own to Zero Point trail. After nearly 1 km of gentle uphill walk though forested area, we reached a tower like structure built to view the Himalayan panorama. The stone-cement structure was of lesser height than the old painted iron structure. Himalayan view was in no way better than that from KMVN.  

Himalayan View from Binsar

The morning jungle walk was invigorating.  Walking on the rustling leaves on ground, the dense growth of tall trees, the cool shady path is any visitors delight. A few overseas tourists had an official guide with them passed by. They would be exploring much more than what we have so far. 

After heavy buffet breakfast which is included in room cost, we were ready to explore more places nearby in our hired car. We went out from the Sanctuary gate and within Binsar forested area, came to a place full of Fern trees with a signboard indicating Gerar Goludevta Temple. We passed through several red coloured arched gates, climbed on stone steps on a gentle slope. The temple appeared to be constructed inside a huge spherical stone with upper potion given a conical shape with a flag of trident at top, indicating it to be a Shiva temple. Inside the temple, we could see many stone Shiva Lingas with a few photos of Gods and Goddesses.  The temple compound is conspicuous with a huge number of bells and some flags hanging on several locations, which have been the work of devotees who wanted their wishes to be fulfilled.  There was a ritual of animal sacrifice in olden days. Nowadays the animal sacrifice is banned inside the  temple compound but it takes place outside in the jungle. 

Gerar Goludevta Temple

We re-entered the Binsar Sanctuary through the gate and this time took a detour and headed up for some distance to arrive at a huge Khali Estate, which serves another good but somewhat costly accommodation for tourists. At the entry point there is a temple. The garden is full of blooming flowers in front of the main single storied structure. We went through the gate to arrive at a large hall with olden style furniture.  At the back side an open area facing the Himalayas, has tables and seating arrangement for the visitors to relax. The seats are created from a simple cut tree trunk placed around the table. A family was relaxing there. Other attraction of this complex is a children’s park with games, a lawn tennis court and a badminton court, all amidst the forested area. 

Mountain Resort, Khali Estate, Binsar

While retreating to KMVN, we had a visit to Bineshwar Temple. The attraction of the place is large green Bhugyal in the vicinity of temple.  We had a darshan and talk with pujari who stays in a neighboring thatched house. Nearby we observed a cubicle made up of brickwork and cement for storing water flowing down the hills.

Bineshwar Temple, Binsar

Returning to KMVN we straightaway headed for lunch. The buffet lunch which is not part of the room tariff, has to be booked beforehand at an extra charge of Rs. 225/- per person. Evening approaching we made another trip to Forest Rest Hose and Sunset Point. With a lot of time in hand, keeping tripod in suitable location, got some good footages of the setting sun. 

7^th November 2011

In early morning we had another view of glorious sunrise from terrace. After breakfast we were hanging around corridor of our room, when suddenly, I caught a young couple, standing near the backside railing of roof terrace, excitedly pointing to something on the boundary wall down below. With digicam in my hand, I rushed and took a few quick snaps of some wild life walking on the fencing. It appeared to be some species of Mongoose. We ran down near the back fencing, to get close view of those animals but they were gone.

Wild life at Binsar

Wild life at Binsar

Coming back to terrace, we spent some time spotting a few colorful birds but they were difficult to capture through the lens. Packing done, we were on the way to our next Kumaon destination Munshiyari.

Binsar visuals as per the captioned link:

Binsar National Park - Flora 

KMVN Binsar Rest House 

Sunrise View from KMVN Binsar 

Gerar Goludevta Mandir - Binsar 

Mountain Resort, Khali Estate - Binsar 

Bineshwar Temple - Binsar 

Sunset Point - Binsar 

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Bomdila and Tawang - The Exciting Journey

Travelogue on Bomdila and Tawang is based on my diary pages written during my journey through NE India in the year 2004.

Day 12  - 5.4.2004   Journey to Tezpur ( Assam )

The morning was cloudy and it was drizzling. Partho, my nephew saw me off at the Dimapur ( Nagaland ) bus stand where I boarded a bus for Jaklabanda. As our journey began the rain increased in intensity. We cruised along road adjoining Kaziranga National Park. Seated by window side I soaked into the adjoining greenery all along the route. I had a fleeting glance of a grazing deer and also a wild elephant. The bus reached Jaklabandha at about 12.45 pm. I took another bus for Tezpur and checked in at the Hotel Luit. I was pleasantly surprised that there was a TV set in the room. I caught the latest on the first day, second cricket test match between India and Pakistan at Lahore. The lunch of fish curry, dal and rice at the hotel was simply great. In the evening I hit the streets and had a hair cut in a decent looking hair cutting saloon. At Rs. 10/- the price was dirt cheap compared to my home town Mumbai! I booked my ticket for Bomdila by Sumo taxi ( Rs.160/- per seat ) for my next days journey to Bomdila. I bought an alarm clock and some biscuits for my next days journey. Tezpur happened to be sparsely populated, sleepy town in Assam situated on the northern bank of river Brhamaputra and full of greeneries. The air was cool and comfortable even in the month of April.

Day 13 - 6.4.2004   Journey to Bomdila

I started early in the morning at about 6 AM in Tata Sumo along with nine other passengers. The morning was gloomy and cloudy. The car travelling over Brahamaputra bridge offers a grand view of this great river of North-East. At Bhalukpong my entry permit was checked. It is mandatory even for an Indian citizen to have a document called ‘Inner line Permit’ to travel to Arunachal Pradesh. After Bhalukpong the road goes uphill passing through picturesque Tonga valley. The weather improved dramatically there after. When I reached Bomdila by noon it was sunshine all the way. At Bomdila I checked in at Hotel Shipyang Pong. The single room cost Rs. 440/- and additional Rs. 150/- for TV. After taking a large meal of Egg-Vegetable rice, I ventured out. I was no longer feeling tired from the days journey. I hired a Maruti van and visited Upper Monastery and Lower Monastery which are the principal sight seeing places and came back to hotel. The monasteries are called Gompas by Buddhists and have hostels for lamas. I found a group of young lamas in upper monastery playing football and some perched in their hostel rooms were enthusiastic spectators. Situated at 8,000 ft the picturesque town of Bomdila offers lovely views of a typical hilly regions of Arunachal Pradesh. I spent rest of the evening watching test match between India and Pak. The weather was biting cold. I had a meal of noodle soup for dinner and retreated to comforts of bed.

Day 14 - 7.4.2004   Journey to Tawang

I got up at 7 AM after 10 hours of refreshing sleep. Bomdila being at 8,000 ft altitude, the weather was very cold but bearable. I was looking forward to my trip to Tawang. During my journey I will travel through Sela pass at 14,000 ft which is second highest motorable pass in the world. Tata Sumo was on schedule. After leaving Bomdila behind and traversing 40 km, we come to Dirang, a picturesque small village. River Bhairali followed us like a faithful pet all along the route. We came across a small village, where we had our lunch comprising Chapati, Dal and Sabzi. As we resumed journey Rhododendron flowers were in full bloom on both sides of the road. At 12,000 ft the pine trees made their appearance. When we were about a few km from Sela, the patches of snow on road side looked like spilt vanilla ice cream. Sela top being at 14, 000 ft, the weather was biting cold. The mountain around were littered with snow. One got a view of beautiful Lake Paradise down below. Although we did not get a halt, I hoped I would get some chance to do photo shooting on my return journey.

After Sela we passed through Jaswantgarh. We had a fleeting glance of memorial erected in memory of Veer Jawan Jaswant Singh. During Chinese aggression in 1962, Jaswant Singh of Indian armed forces combated the superiorly armed Chinese soldiers for 48 hours before attaining martyrdom. Beyond Jaswantgarh the weather turned foggy and cloudy. It also started drizzling. The valley below was totally obscured. After some time the Sumo suddenly came to a halt. Frowning the driver got down. We were panicky. Car breakdown at this juncture would have brought untold miseries to all the passengers. After inspection , the driver got ready to replace a leaking tyre. We got a few minutes of break. I took this opportunity and ventured out to stretch my legs. The weather was dense with fog. The visibility was poor. It was difficult to see beyond 50 ft. Those driving in the hills needed to be most alert while negotiating those hair pin bends so common. Sumo resuming the journey, we come across lot off yaks grazing nonchalantly across the road. These milch animals are akin to what cows and buffaloes are in the plains. As we approached Tawang my dream destination, once again snow made its appearance on both sides of road. Tawang town situated at 10, 000 ft is a ‘picture post card beauty’, undoubtedly the most beautiful town of Arunachal Pradesh. It is a one street town consisting of shops, hotels, and dwellings of local population who are predominantly Buddhists. Everybody spoke Hindi which was so different from other North-Eastern states of India. My first regret on reaching Tawang was that I could not bring my Pentax SLR camera. My second regret was that I was alone and did not have company to share my joy of having visited the paradise of North-East India. Tawang monastery perched on the nearby hill looked imposing and majestic. After soaking myself fully in the scenic beauty of the place for some time, I checked in at Tourist Hut. At Rs. 400/- I got a room with TV and room heater. The cable TV was not working as there was a power failure. I ventured out to see market place. It was biting cold. Not many people were around. The shops were well stocked with provisions of all kind. People were friendly and cheerful. All restaurants served simple vegetarian cuisine. Near the bus stand many locals youths were hanging around. I made some enquiries for booking a car for sight seeing for the next day. A guy called Tempa agreed to pick me up next morning. Back to hotel, I settled for the night. The firewood burning in drum like room heater with a provision for pipes letting out the smoke and pollutants outside made the room extremely comfortable and pollution free.

Day 15 - 8.4.2004   Sight seeing at Tawang

The morning was cloudy. I felt that it would be another rainy day. The hired Maruti van and driver Tempa a came sharp at 7.30 AM. I was distinctly happy to have a company to share my thoughts in company of Tempa. We started the journey which included visit to Tawang Monastery, Lake P.T.Tso, Lake Pengong Wama, Lake Nakula. The van started its upward climb and gradually the cloudy weather gave rise to sunshine. The Lake Pengong Wama was a really small one of the size of a village pond. The water was crystal clear. The surrounding snow cover gave it a majestic look. Then at 12, 000 ft we came across Lake P. T. Tso. This was a large one and located in picturesque surroundings. Shooting for Hindi film ‘Koyla’ was done partly around the two mentioned lakes. Then we cruised to higher altitudes. It was really becoming biting cold. At 15,000 ft the lake Nakula was really a fascinating one. It was frozen and had a partly snowy look and partly clear glassy look. The temperature in this region certainly goes below zero degrees during night time. The pot holes on the road were filled with broken ice sheets and water. We were the only two souls around. It was calm place with rustling sound of chilly wind. We spend some time savouring this lovely place and thanked Almighty for making this visit possible. Finally we descend and come back to Tawang town. I had a quick snack and coffee at Dolphins. Then we proceeded to Tawang Monastery a 400 year old Gompa one of the best known in India. En route we come across lamas engaged in various activities. The monastery is colourful one and has a majestic look. We went inside to have a darshan of Lord Buddha. The Tawang Gompa houses a beautifully gilded 8 mete high statue of Lord Buddha and a number of equally remarkable idols and murals. Tempa takes his time in offering prayers. While coming back to town we came across lamas studying seriously in front of their school; may be it was examination time! I had the pleasure of taking the snap of a lama teacher who gladly posed in front door of his room. We also found some lamas engaged in road repairing work. Then we proceeded to war memorial which was erected in memory of those soldiers and officers who laid down their lives during Indo-China war of 1962. The memorial is maintained beautifully by the army and name of all martyrs are engraved. Finally we proceeded to Crafts Centre which markets the carpets, shawls and cane items made by local artisans. The tour over I took leave of Tempa who had been such a good company and guide. I had a lunch at a Chinese restaurant ( the only non-vegetarian restaurant in Tawang ) and then returned to hotel. Pleasant surprise! The TV channels were functioning. I started my packing for the next day.

Day 16 -  9.4.2004  Return journey to Tezpur

I started return journey for Tezpur at 7 AM. The weather was cloudy and gloomy. It started drizzling after some time. When we reached Sela pass it was completely a different view. There was overnight snowfall and snow was soft. Passengers had a good time playing in snow during the break. The driver and his girl friend had a fair share of snowball exchanges! The Lake Paradise below was looking as majestic as ever. The journey continued. After leaving Bomdila the jeep came to a sudden grinding halt. In the next few minutes I would be observing what I have heard but never experienced in my life. A land slide in mountain! In about 100 yards in front, I observed a huge boulder rumbling down the mountain and came to rest on the road with thud. Next few minutes smaller boulders and finally small stones came down in showers. After waiting for a full ten minutes, our driver inspected the pathway across the huge boulder and thought there was just enough space left on the road for the Sumo to squeeze through. Thus it was a providential escape! Landslides in mountain takes days to clear and all traffic comes to stand still for days. In the cloudy and foggy weather the drive was slow and torturous. Finally after nearly 14 hours of ordeal I managed to reach Tezpur and checked in Hotel Durba for the night.

( Acknowledgement : The journey to Arunachal ( Bomdila, Tawang ) would not have been possible without the kind cooperation of my friend Amal and his better half Gitashri. In fact Gitashri did all the running about for collecting my ‘Inner line permit’ from Liaison office, Arunachal Tourism at Salt Lake, Kolkata. )

Bomdila and Tawang Photo Album

The document ‘Inner Line Permit’ can be had from any office of Arunachal Pradesh Tourism after filling up of a form and attaching a few documents.

At Kolkata

Deputy Residence Commissioner, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, Kolkata

CE-109, Sector-1

Salt Lake City, Kolkata

Phone: +91 - 33- 23341243 / 23589865 (F)

How to reach :

Reach Tezpur in Assam by availing air service from Kolkata. From Tezpur travel by Tata Sumo for 6 hours to reach Bomdila and travel another 6 hours to reach Tawang

The best time to travel to Bomdila and Tawang is from April to September.

What to do :

If you are a nature lover you have plenty to look forward to. Take a car and visit those beautiful Buddhist Gompas at Bomdila and Tawang. At Tawang see many beautiful lakes situated at various altitudes; each looking unique in its own way.

At Tezpur : Luit Hotel, the best hotel in Tezpur, tel no. 03712 – 222083 / 222084
At Bomdila : Hotel Shipyang Pong, the best accommodation at Bomdila, tel 03782-22286
At Tawang : Tourist Hut, very comfortable hotel with room heater, tel no. 03794 - 222738

 

Valley Of Flowers – A Memorable Trek In Garhwal Himalayas

The twin destinations of Hemkund and Valley of Flowers, have their base as Ghangaria in Garhwal Himalayas. The tourists visit these places between first week of June and last week of September. Since both these destinations fall on the Badrianth route, a day’s program of Badrinath also gets thrown in. After visiting valley of flowers twice and Hemkund once, I realized that best time to visit both these places differ. Hemkund is seen at its best during the month of June and Valley of flowers between mid-July to mid-August. In other words, ideally, one should not combine these places in one tour. But, one does not want to have a tour too many. My two visits to Valley of Flowers took place in month of June in 2008 and 2009. Not being best time of the year to visit the Valley, it was not disappointing either.

We started from Rishikesh in early morning and arrived at Govindghat by evening traversing some 273 km distance. The next day we had a 14 km trek to Ghangaria (also called Govind-Dham). Arriving at Ghangaria we got holed up at gmvnl guest house since we availed of gmvnl package tour.

The 23rd day of June, 2008 dawned with another bright, cloud-less morning. We took our time and packed our back packs and headed along the cement paved track, crossed the steel bridge over river Laxmanganga, and walked on till the board indicating the direction to Valley of Flowers and Hemkund made its appearance. We veered towards left and came to the check post. The door to the modest office maintained by forest authorities, was just being unlocked by two persons, who were in charge of issuing passes for the entry to Valley. The entry fee costs Rs.50/- and for still camera Rs.100/-. We sat down on the benches across the office as those office people started some repair work to their office entrance. It was good 15 minutes, before we could be issued our entry passes, and we hit the trail. The first impression that hits you, on the stone paved, tree covered track with beautifully maintained railings, is the absence of horse dung, as horses are not allowed inside. The aroma of fresh vegetation in air was evident. As we proceeded the very tall 'jungle rose' bush with profusion of flowers, greeted us. The initial half a km was simple downward trek amidst plants and bushes aplenty; the tall trees stopping the sunlight almost completely, the moist soil and leaves, leave you with a kind of freshness, we seldom find in our cities. As we descended further a roaring sound greeted us. The mountain stream visible at a distance, was to be crossed. About 30’ from the bridge, the track suddenly ended. We simply had to squeeze between huge rocks while going up, sometimes making use of our hand to get a grip. A lone tourist was returning from his early morning trek to the Valley. We carefully crossed over the iron sheets placed over the furiously flowing river Pushpawati, and after a rise of couple of metres, hit the trail for the Valley. 

Make shift bridge

 

The early summer species of flowers ( if you can call it a flower ) to greet us was ‘Cobra lily’, which is green in colour and absolutely resembles the reptilian species.

Cobra Lily

A few Bhoj trees jutted out at regular intervals, with a lot of bark or thin scale trying to separate from mother plant. Our ancestors used the tree skin known as Bhoj patra, to do their writing, when the paper did not make its appearance. 

Bhoj tree

Bhoj Patra

  

We yet again crossed another make-shift bridge over flowing rivulet. The trail there after was stone paved with a gentle upward gradient; the constant roar of the flowing river, among the melting glaciers, kept one company right through. At some point we come across a spot where the river was emerging below a glacier; the glacier extending to the mountain opposite. There was a lot of dust scattered across the glacier, somewhat marring its beauty otherwise.

Glacier on way

 

We came across a glacier right on top of the trail. The forest authorities seemed to have scooped the snow at suitable location for the foothold, big enough for ‘yeti’ to cross over! None the less, one by one, we crossed over. Sandhya took her own time scooping some snow here and there. The trek appeared to be so different from Hemkund trek, in a sense that, one tries in vain to fill the huge void in this part of Himalayas, since the visitors were conspicuous by their absence, at this time of the year. We came across some small scattered flowers here and there, but nothing as significant as we read about.

We took the narrow trail, some time stone paved, sometime over plain soil. The cement based seating pedestals, created at suitable locations, was an ideal for taking a breather. On next one hours leisurely trek we had several snap shots of flowers of species blooming in early summer.

 

                                                      

As we arrived at the valley, the sign board reading Bamandhaula, at 3,450m, heralded the beginning of Valley. The Valley extended further 5 km; which we decide not to negotiate. The narrow trail with both  sides having dense bushes of  plants with exotic names with their sigh boards, like Saussrea fastuosa, Primula Macrophyla, and others, waited for the blooming season in July/August.

We found a small pipe jutting by the side of trail with clear fresh water emerging from it. We drank the spring water to our hearts content and sat down to admire the nature around. The valley itself, flowers, or no – flowers, was enchanting. The dark clouds vying with each other to caress the hills, with a lot of vegetation, was an eye soother. The distant snow peaks, added a grandeur to the valley. The peace and tranquillity of the place was astounding.  A group of villagers passed by; so beautifully blending with the surroundings and make it more lively.

Valley of Flowers Photo Album

Valley of Flowers - visuals in youtube 

Important information:

1) Valley of Flowers is open to public from first week of June to end September.

2) The best time to visit the valley is between 15^th July to 15^th August.

3) Be prepared to come across some landslides in Badrinath route in July/August. One or two additional days as cushion could prove to be helpful.

4) GMVNL Ghangaria offers decent accommodation which can be booked online.

                                                             

Deoria Tal Trek & Unusual Guide

 

Since 1984, on my Himalayan Treks in Garhwal Hills, I seldom availed of  a guide. My treks were mostly along routes which had religious shrines, a well defined stone paved trails and were trodden by many. A few treks which resulted in routes sans religious importance, along with my small group, did pose some problems. One such treks in summer of 2007, which resulted in our group getting lost and finding our way rather uncharacteristically, is Deoria Tal trek, which is worthwhile recounting. 

We left Ukhimath after offering prayers at the Omkareshwar temple in a colourful compound. The Shiva temple here serves as the seat of Lord Kedarnath during six months in winter, when the snow covers the entire upper Himalayas.

When we arrived at Saari village, the base for the trek, in early morning, not a soul was on the road. Our driver left us at the stone paved trek route starting at the base of a hill. We started the steep climb and got the bird’s view of Saari village after about half an hour. 

Saari Village View From Top

Further ascent brought us to a place where the stone paved road ended but Deoria Tal was not in sight. We simply did not know which way to proceed and were ruing the fact that we did not have a guide. As minutes passed, we were becoming more restless; our goal of reaching Deoria Tal before 8 pm appeared hopeless. In the gloom appeared the sunshine in form of five village women, with sickle in hands, looming on top of the hill. As if understanding that we have lost our way, they waved at us to climb up. We were just immobile and did not realize what to do? Looking our predicament, the youngest one of the women, raced down hill where we were and escorted us to where the group stood. The villagers on a grass cutting mission in the hill, told us the way to the Deoria Tal with a shepherd dog named Kaloo to escort us. We had some photo shoot of five of our pathfinders done before departure with Kaloo the guide posing in the foreground. 

Village Belles - all smiles

Kaloo took off on his own as if it was a normal ritual for him to escort the hapless and lost tourists on way to Deoria Tal. After another half an hour we passed through a mud track full of dense growth of trees on either side and came to an opening overlooking the grandiose Deoria Tal. On a sunlit day, with a gentle breeze blowing, the reflection of green foliages on lake water, with a back drop of Chaukhamba, the Himalayan snow peak looked awesome. The place around was green carpet of Bhugyal, with stone slabs forming a walking path around the lake. This place will rank as one of the finest lake views we have seen in Himalayas.

Deoria Tal Close View

Having spent some time around the periphery of the lake and savoring the Himalayan view, with Chaukhamba peak looming ahead large and gigantic. We ordered for breakfast from the only dhaba in this destination. Aloo Parathas and Maggie noddles compensated for our burnt out calories due to our mornings trek and some reserves for our return trek.

Return trek was no problem this time. Kaloo showed us the way once again, taking us through a stone paved trek route and then disappeared to his destination. We checked with one dhaba en-route to ensure that we did not get lost again. The amby was waiting at the right place to pick us up; the driver realized that he left us at the wrong place to commence our trek. Thus memory of Kaloo our unusual guide for ever remains in our memory, whenever we remember Deoria Tal trek. 

Trek to Chandrashila Top – The Spectacular Sunrise

 

The early summer trek to Tunganth and an overnight stay at one of those cottages sans much amenities will be worthwhile if one attempts the mini-Himalayan peak of Chandrashila, the next morning before the dawn breaks. Tunganth located at 12,500’ elevation and Chandrashila at 13,200’ elevation leaves one to climb height of 700’ over a distance of 2 km, not a bad deal at all for trekkers.

At Tunganath we did not have not much to do except shiver in cold and watch the Himalayan panorama, roam a little bit beyond the temple compound and recce the track to Chandrashila for the next day’s morning trek. We hit the hay early in order to wake up at 4.30 am the next morning. One of us four trekkers did the needful of waking us up at the appointed time. I came out of room, shivering to have a look at the sky. The innumerable twinkling stars, augured well to indicate that we were in for a bright sunlit day when the sun rose. We quickly got dressed up and took to the trail on a dark night yet to end, with light barely enough for trekking. We had torch in us, in case we needed one. We walked on a gentle upward trail on a stone paved track for almost one km, then the broad trail ended. Sans any guide we were not sure which way to proceed. As happened in all our Himalayan journeys, we did not have to wait for long till we came across on a local resident. He showed us the purple colored flag on the hill top and asked us to follow it. Thus we hit a very narrow muddy trail with the flag on Ganga temple acting as our polestar. At places, the snow and mud formed a mixture through which we had to make our way.

We arrived at the Chandrashila Top just before the dawn and found the Ganga Dham temple at the entry to a small table land

Ganga Dham Temple

We squeezed past the temple, to reach the place and were amazed to find at least ten more tourists have managed to reach here before us, a few of them had blankets wrapped around them to combat the cold at 13,000’ plus altitude! The photographers professional or otherwise, set up their tripods and battery of lenses to supplement their camera, were all in position and waiting for the sunrise in a cloudless sky.

At Chandrashila Top

Before even sun would peep from behind one of the snow peaks, the Chaukhamba peak had a crimson glow, which gradually spread to other peaks. 

Golden Glow On Chaukhamba Peak

The sun rising from behind one of the Himalayan peaks showed the outlines of the mountains, in various shades of bright luminosity. 

Sunrise View

The climbing down from the table land was a rather simple exercise, which brought us back to Tunganth, where after breakfast we set for Chopta to board our car for the next destination.

Chandrashila Top Photo Album

Important Info for trekkers:

1) The trek is not a very steep one; it is necessary to start early from Tunganth to reach Chandrashila before sunrise.

2) No ponies are available in this trek. Ponies are available from Chopta to Tunganth only.

3) It is very cold in early morning at the top; need all the woolens one can muster.

4) The saffron flags on top of Ganga Dham temple on hill top act as a guiding point; one should follow the trail leading to it, if one is without a guide.

Sri Tunganath Yatra in Garhwal Himalayas

 

Those who have made the Do Dham Yatra or Char Dham Yatra in Garhwal, the scenic place called Chopta is not is not unfamiliar on the Kedarnath route. The Himalayan panorama from Chopta is awesome to say the least. The signboard on the main road reads ‘The Mini Switzerland,’ is an understatement. The place abounds one of the densest of forest, greenest vast expanse of Bhugyals (green meadows.) This place  still remains one of the under developed regions in Garhwal. There are no worthwhile accommodation facilities; the tele-communication is lacking. But the discerning visitors who are able to take all this into stride will have a whale of a time in this Garhwal Himalayan destination at 9.000’ altitude.

Chopta View

From Chopta, a devout can take a giant step forward in other words, trek a distance of 4 km, in that process climbing 3,500’ and arrive at Tunganath - one of the Panch Kedar. 

Since 1984, when I first ventured to Do Dham Yatra, I passed by Chopta at least three times, with a break of 30 minutes in one of the occasions. In May 2007, I along with three of my friends, planned to trek from Chopta to Tunganth in course of our 10 days journey through Garhwal region. We pick up the threads in a rainy afternoon when we landed at Chopta and looked out for hotel room for four of us. We got two rooms in Neelkanth hotel, near bus stand after entering the divine arched gate with bells hanging. The room had good clean linen with attached bath. A solar powered lamp was the only other facility it had. From the verandah of the hotel, the vast Himalayan panorama could be seen, within some trees offering a minor obstruction. 

Panorama from Chopta

The next morning was a bright sunlit day, when we came to the road and re-entered the arched gate and one by one and rang the bell to announce our arrival at Lord Shiva’s kingdom. A darshan at a temple near the gate set the tone for our trek through the upward winding stone paved path. As in all the upward treks in high altitudes, the initial half a km is very tough, till the system gets used to the need of increased oxygen to our leg muscles. We took the opportunity to take a few minutes rest and soothing our eyes on the vast expanse of Bhugyal ( green meadows ) to our left side; a few pilgrims were riding ponies to reach Tunganath as fast as possible and return on the same day. We had no such ideas as we had our mind to spend one night at the altitude of 12,500’, the abode of lord Shiva considered to be Hindu temple at the highest elevation in Himalayas.

As we resumed our trek through the steep gradient, a few ponies loaded with goods were going up or coming down; that being the only mode of transport for carrying food and supplies in this Himalayan region. We reached alpine field station with a signboard indicating with arrow towards the landscape full of pine trees and Bugyal and at a distance a few cottages. After nearly four hours of trek, we sighted the Tunganath township with a two storied ugly looking shack reading Ganesh Hotel. Somewhat on higher elevation, the  boundary of Tunganth temple compound and the upper portion of  the temple could be seen.

We checked in at a shack named Chandrashila Hotel with two bedrooms with cubby holes of an attached toilet, with no running water. No doubt, very few pilgrims visit this shrine; those who visit try to return back to Chopta on the same day.  After half an hour, the body heat generated due to trekking dissipating, it was shivering time. We donned all the woolens we had and sat on plastic chairs in the frontal potion of hotel, watching Himalayan panorama. After a while, we climbed up the stone steps to have a darshan at the Tunganath temple. 

Way to Tunganath Temple

The view from Tunganth temple compound, down below, showed a few of the dilapidated shacks which had some stone layers; the ravages of the Himalayan weather had done the needful. The two storied, pink coloured Kali Kamli Dharmashala looked good in this place. The distant landscape with Himalayan panorama and the frontal layer of hills with clouds caressing their crests added the grandeur. To add divinity to this heavenly place, a colorfully robed sadhubaba sitting on the temple compound boundary, was all calm and composure in his meditation.

Meditation in Himalayas

Back to the hotel, we found the  dhaba cook was busy preparing khichdi and potato fry for us. The piping hot food, freshly prepared, tasted heavenly in the chilly weather. 

As we were standing near the shack, a nonagenarian priest walked up the slope and met us. He claimed to trek daily from Chopta to Tunganth to help pilgrims offer puja at the temple. We, after a brief chat with the pujari, decided to have a snooze in the afternoon, the weather being inclement for sightseeing around Tunganth. It must have been about an hour, when the pitter patter on the shack roof brought us awake and outside to witness the sleet fall accompanied by rain. The sleets are ice globules coming down at as high velocity to strike the ground surface, then get molten in no time. We were too overawed to capture the phenomenon in our digicam.

Tunganath by fog and mist

The Himalayan mood seemed to change again, with rainfall abating, the clouds migrating to a different destination. The Himalayan panorama was getting gradually unveiled to offer us awesome view.

Snow View from Tunganath

It was time to visit the neighboring hill where the glacier molten water was flowing down in a cascade, with scattered wild flowers and colorful moss on the rocks. The snow fall in the not so distant hill was apparent, as we spent some time shooting the landscape. In the evening, after a cup of tea and some snacks, we ventured out to do a recce of the trek route to Chandrashila Top, where we proposed to go the next day early morning. Post dinner, we went to sleep hoping for a cloud free day, at the crack of the dawn to get a best possible view of sunrise over Himalayas at Chandrashila Top.

Tunganath Video Clip as Captured by me

Important Info for trekkers:

1) Chopta to Tunganath is a steep gradient trek; mercifully the distance is only 4 km to climb over a stretch of 3,500’. The entire route is stone paved, so water accumulation on route is not a problem.

2) It is better to start as early in the morning as possible, since one tends to perspire a lot even in the early summer as the sun rises.

3) Tunganth being at 12,500’ elevation, it is biting cold. Jackets and woolens are a must.

4) Ponies are available at Chopta, for those who cannot foot it out.

5) No palkis are available in this route.

6) The accommodation at Tunganth is a) Kali Kamliwali Dharmashala, the pink coloured two storied structure one cannot miss b) Chandrashila hotel, single storied shack c) Ganesh hotel, a two storied shack. The amenities are very elementary in all the places. Power is solar and candle is provided during night.

7) The Tungnth temple does not see many visitors, but view from temple compound is a nature lover’s delight.

8) The time to visit Tunganth is from mid-May till September end.