Wild Life At Ladakh – A Close View

Bharals at Changma

A Leh – Ladakh trip in summer months bring an unexpected bounty in form of viewing wild life consisting different species of birds and animals, when one criss-crosses in jeep through hilly roads or treks on the mud – stone track. One really does not know when he is within any wild life sanctuary sans any man made boundary or man-power taking care of those areas. Occasionally one is lucky to come across signboards, which indicates the name of the wild life sanctuary, where one has kept his foothold. The due protection offered to the wild life species by the local habitants of Ladakh, have certainly helped them to proliferate and feel secure. 

The principal wild life sanctuaries in Ladakh are:  

1) Hemis National Park

2) Changthang National Park  

Hemis High Altitude National Park is in the Eastern Ladakh region of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Hemis extends from Zingchen through Rumbak valley to Stok.  The famous snow leopards about 200 in number seem to exist in Rumbak catchment areas. It is a rare to see these species even during winter seaon. If one can see their pug-marks on snow in winter months, one should consider himself lucky. The other animals in this region are Bharal or Himalayan Blue sheep (feed for snow leopards), Asiatic Ibex, Ladakhi Urial and many others. This region also has a variety of birds some of them being Tibetan species, not visible in other parts of India. Birds existing in these habitats are Golden Eagle, Himlayan Griffon, Chukar, Himalayan Snowcock etc. 

We, in our trip to Ladakh in end May 2010, were unfortunate for not able to visit Rumbak, because of excess snowfall in those regions. However that did not prevent us from having a go at Hemis national park from both ends, in areas like Zingchen and Stok. When we undertook the Stok to Changma trek on 30^th May, 2010, little did we knoe that we were venturing into Hemis wild life sanctuary. From Stok village, we walked through dried river bed mostly over stones, crossing small streams and after covering 5 kms reached Changma, our destination. We were traversing on a trail leading to Stok – Kangri, one of the highest mountain peaks visible from Leh town and it’s expedition is undertaken by adventurous trekkers in month of September. We were actually on area for base camp meant for this kind of expedition.  Ironically, throughout our trek, the Stok – Kangri peak was not visible, being covered by so many hills in the front.  After three of us had a nourishing cup of coffee at the tented restaurant at Changma, we thought of walking another kilometer or so, just to view Stok – Kangri peak. We came across a glacier, but fortunately, we did not have to cross it. That late morning we could not get a view of Stok – Kangri and somewhat dejected, were about to retrace our footsteps. Then, suddenly, we spotted something, which froze us in our tracks. A number of brown colored animals were grazing ahead. We tip toed and came really close enough for a generous number of images and a some amount of video footages. This was our first unexpected encounter with wild life of Ladakh. 

A Close Encounter

Next day, we had another look at Hemis National park from the other end. Reaching Zingchen, our jeep passed over a small stream to a flat land cleared from forested area. The place was desolate, with only a cottage which served as a restaurant but unfortunately it was closed. We sat on the benches in the shade of Poplar trees and looked around for some kind of life. A guy appeared with couple of ponies, waiting for his clients to arrive. He offered to pick us up, in case we needed a return trip on back of the pony. We passed over a log bridge to the same jeepable road we travelled earlier and continued in the direction of Hemis National Park. The signboard soon enough indicated that we were on the correct trail. We walked for about 5 km deep through a stony path, crossing a few streams, but did not find any life of wild life. We had a bite to eat from our packed lunch, sitting on rocks under a willow tree, our legs dangling into flowing water of the mountain stream. On our return trek, we observed a shepherd, following his flock of sheep, on the mountain trail. Reaching Zinchan, left us about 2 hours of time before our hired Qualis was about to pick us up. The silence in the area was broken by rustling of leaves of Poplar and Willow trees. The greenery around was soothing. After a while we were getting edgy and decided to do some bird shooting. After a lot of chase, we captured a few of the Himalayan birds in our lens, two of them are reproduced below. 

Black Billed Magpie

Chukar Bird

Changthang Wild life sanctuary is in the Southern region of Ladakh located at high altitude ranging fom 14,000’ to 19,000’, located in Changthang plateau.  It is important as one of the few places in India with a population of the Tibetan Wild Ass and Black necked crane. The area of the sanctuary covers the regions of High altitude lakes like Tsomoriri and Pangong Tso. Since both the lake destinations are in top of the preferred destinations for Ladakh tourists, hence there is no extra endeavor necessary to step into Changthang National Park. 

On our jeep safari to Tsomoriri, we only came across a signboard near the lake fencing which indicated that we were in Changthang Cold Desert Wild Life Sanctuary. In this trip we came across a lot of nomadic tents and huge population of sheep. Yaks were grazing at some locations or ploughing the agricultural plots. No trace of luck as far as wild life was concerned. Our endeavor in this respect was amply rewarded in our jeep safari to Pangong Tso. After crossing Tangtse, one hour later, we were passing by a huge flat land across the road. Our driver noticed some movement beside a huge dug up hole, stopped the car and asked us to follow. What followed was observing Marmot a wild animal about 2’ in height, in a very close proximity, our driver feeding it some bread sticks. We as usual were content to keep using our fingers on digicam and handycam.

Marmot Peeping Out

We reached Spangmik on Pangong Tso by 5 pm and checked into Jammu & Kashmir tourism guest house. The evening was spend around lake and next morning while retracing we had a break at Lukung also on bank of Pangong Tso. The Black Headed Gull in large numbers gliding in the back drop of sunlit hill side made a wonderful visual. The gulls, gliding, bobbing and moving in lake water and screaming was a novel sight.

Black Headed Gull

Apart from afore mentioned wild life sanctuaries in Ladakh, wild life can be seen at many places. Nubra valley jeep safari will terminate at the picturesque Hunder village. Sand dunes located very close to the village gives the tourist an opportunity to have a rocking (in real sense also)Bactrian camel ride. The same Bactrian camels, but wild variety in a group of about 25 came to our notice on our return trip, while the jeep was approaching Diskit village. The cavalcade of adult and baby camels, traversing the sand dunes alongside Seabuckthorn bushes, gave us a unique opportunity to capture those animals in our lens.

Wild Bactrian Camels

 When we were returning by jeep from Nemo, confluence of rivers Zanskar and Indus, after completing white water rafting on river Zanskar, a pair of Ibex ran across our jeep and went as far as the distant hill. The split moment was not conducive to have a photograph of the animals. 

* Author has captured many video clips of the wild animals at Ladakh. The composite video of the same can be seen to supplement the blog from following link

http://youtu.be/enFyYOK2-yo

Tsomoriri, Tsokar & Korzok – Nomad’s Land in Ladakh

Korzok Landscape

Changthang plateau located in the South-Eastern portion of Ladakh, encompasses a few large lakes like Tsomoriri and Pangong Tso and smaller ones like Tsokar and Thatsang Karu. The pastures around these lakes supplies the necessary feed for livestock, during summer, owned by nomadic group. This nomadic group known as ‘Changpa’, occupy land which are not hospitable for farming. Their lively hood depends on milk, butter, cheese, the wool from their livestock. The Changthang wild life sanctuary located in the same region, extending from Tsomoriri to Pangong Tso, has natural grass land, having diverse flora and fauna. Our destination on this safari is Korzok village situated on South-West bank of Tsomoriri. 
  
After landing in Leh on twenty fourth of May 2010, we realized, apart from the Gompa trip around Leh, Tsomoriri – Tsokar jeep safari circuit was not affected by the late snow fall and closure of all the important high altitude passes in Ladakh. Tsomoriri trail does not pass through any of the mountain passes; but we had a plan of taking our return trip via Taglang-la pass, which was blocked. We accepted the fate that we will not be able to view a great mountain pass in Ladakh.  

Hill view on a cloudy day at Leh

Twenty eighth of May began as a cloudy day, somewhat dampening our spirits. We began our journey in hired Innova, with Sonam Dorji as our driver, who had served as a guide for a few years, took up his dual role without much fuss. Passing through Shey and Thiksey villages, our first halt was at Karu, located on south of Leh, at a distance of 30 km.  Karu is a junction point for both Pangong Tso and Tsomoriri. After breakfast at a wayside hotel at Karu, we were on way to Upshi, where we will be filling up our water bottles. On our right side, river Indus, with a lot of willow trees planted on the bank, gives us company for quite some time. The Upshi – Karu stretch of river Indus offers a good rafting expedition experience for tourists, with gentle and easy run of 14 km. Upshi is a road junction which connects, the Leh -Tsomoriri route as well as the Leh – Manali route.

  

We had a small break at Upshi village, with a lot of Black-billed Magpie birds flocking around which gave us some opportunity to use our cameras. The Black - billed Magpie is actually a bird of crow species, and is very frequently observed in all possible human habitats in Ladakh. They make a pleasant sight, when in flight, with black and white geometrical patterns in motion.

Black-billed Magpie

Our major destination after Upshi is Chumathang at a distance of 88 km. In one of the many small villages we came across, it was interesting to watch the horses and Yaks ploughing the agricultural plots.

Yaks tilling agricultural plots

When we were near Kiari village, for the first time we got a close look of some of the purple colored rocks, on the hills by the road side. The place is scenic, with beautiful cottages on mountain slopes, flowing river, the green vegetation, the cultivation plots and the yellow colored monastery perched on higher elevation.  

Kiari Village Landscape

We come to about 3 km from Kidmang village, and found a beautiful valley, with snow peaks, the water bodies, and brown hills.

Kidmang Landscape

We arrive at Chumathang, which contains hot sulphur water springs, which we thought of having a view on our return trip. For time being, we visit one of those restaurants and have a bite to eat. The place is having a beautiful landscape; the recent snowfall has made it look even better.  The cloudy weather was giving way to occasional sunshine. Our spirits soared, as we proceed to our next destination.

Chumathang Landscape

We continue along the road to Tsomoriri, but take a detour at Mahe bridge, over river Indus. Indus river looks quite deep and broad here. The sloping hill side had different colored stone chips, some violet, some light green, some brown, which was really amazing. We approached the Sumdo Tibetan refugee camp, consisting of single storied cottages. On the mud track, we find a typical Ladakhi family on move. The ladakhi lady with her child was riding a black horse, followed by ladakhi gent in his typical Ladakhi hat riding a white horse. Road to Tsokar lake was very bumpy with scattered stone chips. We reach Kolokonga, which has two cylindrical stone structures one above the other, with a large number of colorful flags tied all around. We had a few minutes break, just to photograph the neighboring hills, with recent snowfall.

Recent snow falls on hills - view from Kolokonga

We sighted Tsokar lake at some distance. The onward road actually going down, we had to halt at a distance of 500 m from the lake. Going further by road, would have taken us at a height lower than the lake height, and losing the view altogether.  Hiking in the cold and windy weather towards the lake, did not appear attractive; also we had to reach Tsomoriri before sundown. With cloudy sky, the lake had a grey look, not much of contrast with the snow peaks and hills in backdrop, with yellowish brown foreground.  At 4,600 m height, the chilly winds blowing, we quickly got a few shots and hurried back to our car.

Tsokar lake amidst clouds

We retreat in our jeep and come to very large meadow, dotted with tented camps, flock of Pashmina sheep (which produces the finest of wools known as Pashmina). The shawls made from Pashmina are famous nationally and internationally.  We retrace to Sumdo, from where we take the Tsomoriri trail. The meadows around are full of sheep, grazing and giving indications that we were at the nomad’s land.  We found ourselves near one of the most beautiful lakes in Ladakh known as Thatsang Karu. This lake is supposed to be a brackish lake, but with so much of snow piled up on the top of frozen water, it must be getting a lot of glacial melted water as well. Can it be called partly brackish and partly sweet water lake? The weather was cloudy, not very conducive to photography. Hopefully in the return trip, we will have better luck.

Thatsang Karu lake in cloudy weather

We came along a lot of tents mostly white and black colored, on mud and stones plateau, with a broad frozen snow laden portion alongside. With weather being very windy and chilly, all the water around seem to be frozen. With jeep stopping occasionally, for photography breaks, small children came running and stood around; as if some kind of a novelty in this bleak country bereft of many visitors, in early summer. 

Mother and child

At last we sight the Tsomoriri lake, a fencing running at some distance from its bank.  We find at a distance, a huge piece of iceberg floating on water.  We come across a sign board reading  Tsomoriri Wetland Protected Area put up by Deptt. Of wild life protection, J & K State. The Changthang sanctuary covers the area across Pangong Tso and Tsomoriri. We did not find any wild life here though. We continued our journey along the lake side, which looked grayish, in the cloudy weather. At some places snow collected along the lake side, hardened later on, making beautiful patterns, enhancing the beauty of the lake.

Tsomoriri lake

Finally we sight the habitation of Korzok. Tsomoriri Resort consisting of a cluster of single storied cottage, looked inviting. Also, visible was some tented camps. But, Sonam, our driver-cum-guide had different ideas. Being a Ladakhi, he wanted us to have an experience of Home Stay, where one stays with a Ladakhi family at nominal rates.  Ahead we reach another settlement, slightly at higher level, consisting of a few double storied structures. One such houses, known as Mentok Guest House, we entered dimly lit passage area, and minding our head in entering through low height doors. We were given a double room with one additional bed, on first floor, overlooking the Tsomoriri lake. The owner has even constructed an English type toilet, for convenience of all types of tourists.  There was no piped water, but that problem is at all the places in lake areas.

Mentok lodge at Tsomoriri

We quickly had some tea and snacks and hurried off, to view the lake front, before the day light faded.  It was a windy, chilly weather and took some effort to walk to about half a kilometer to lakefront. Tsomoriri lake is one of the Brackish lakes in Ladakh. One can easily make out these lakes, with white salt deposition on the lake front. We spent some time there, in windy and cold conditions. With sun light fading, we came back to our
room. Chemat Dorje, Ladakhi owner, meanwhile had started the DG sets, which is available from 7 pm to 11 pm. He inquired whether we would like to have a gas heating arrangement, in the room, for a few hours, at a nominal cost. Although very cold, we decided to do without it. We were provided with extra thick blankets. 

An early dinner consisting of Rice, Chapati, Dal, Potato curry and cabbage curry, was welcomed. The food was kept on a make shift table, a huge trunk covered with a table cloth. After having tasted food at various locations in Ladakh, even at restaurants of Leh, I would rate this food as the BEST, that I have tasted in Ladakh; low on spices, low on oil, yet very tasty.  Our total expenses for room and food for three persons came out to be Rs. 900/-.  

Next morning was a glorious sunlit day. Sid left early in the morning to have a look at Korzok Gompa, Sac and I just lazed around, did not venture out in biting cold weather.  After breakfast, we were back to jeep for the return trip. Blessed with sunny weather, we had a very interesting experience of witnessing the nomadic tribes from close quarters.  The white tents in brown flat land, with a back drop of glacier at slightly lower level looked great. The sheep were kept inside a boundary of stone wall enclosure.

Korzok Nomad tents

We came across more such nomadic habitats, with sheep flocks moving or grazing, and shepherd dogs keeping a keen watch. Some dogs even gave our car a chase, till they became tired.  We dared not open car windows or doors at these locations, and take the risk of being attacked. We sighted the lake Thatsang Karu for second consecutive day. What a contrast! In bright morning sunlight, with clear blue sky, it simply looked awesome. About 80% of the lake water was frozen or covered with snow.  Its height at 4620 m is higher than Tsomoriri and Tsokar lake. The shore had some white patches, indicating brackish nature of the lake.

Thatsang Karu lake on a sunlit day

On way to Chumathang, a bridge over river Indus looked attractive and we spend some time, making to and fro across the Indus river. We reach Chumathang and witness, the hot water springs, water actually gushing out of the earth on the bank of Indus river. The steam and water bubbling out could have boiled potatoes in a few minutes!

Hot water springs at Chumathang

On return trip to Leh, I was thoughtful, 'One can never have enough of Ladakh. I may not have visited enough destinations, I may not have taken enough photographs, I may not have shot as many videos as I should have. I can only experience enough of Ladakh by actually going there, again and again and yet again.'

I would like to share some footages of Tsomoriri tour circuit as per the following captioned link.

Nomads Land - Korzok, Tsomoriri

Important Information:

1. It is better to take the Tsomoriri safari, when the Manali – Leh route is open. That way on the return trip one can have a view of Taglang-la pass.

2. During Tsomoriri safari, one does not have to go through high altitude passes, hence it is less subject to vagaries of weather.

3. Accommodation at Tsomoriri will be very basic. The climate can be very harsh, cold and windy during early summer.